Shoes & Bags, essential items

Muchas son las bloggers que escogen como prenda favorita los zapatos. ¿Quién no ha oído nunca que una mujer determinada tiene infinitos? Y la realidad es que un zapato puede cambiar tu look por completo, consiguiendo darle un giro al estilo de ropa que llevas e incluso estropearte el outfit por completo.

Esta primavera; grandes marcas como Gucci, YSL, Dolce&Gabbanna y otras; han decidido centrarse en este complemento que a veces no se les da la importancia necesaria. Y esta próxima temporada, los diseñadores han decidido crear formas excéntricas, o si más no originales, en sus tacones y zapatos en conjunto. Con ello han logrado nuevos estilos que aportan personalidad hasta en los looks más sencillos. Las bloggers de todo el mundo han percibido esta posible nueva tendencia y los han lucido en las que están siendo las Fashion Weeks del momento (que por supuesto; haremos un artículo más extenso próximamente).

 

Y con los bolsos, el segundo complemento por excelencia, sucede lo mismo. Estamos viendo que para esta temporada de Primavera/Verano los diseñadores han decidido prestarles más atención a ambos objetos, trabajándolos con nuevas formas y combinaciones tanto en tejido cómo en estructura.

 Nos encanta que estos artículos tengan tanta personalidad, ¿os añadiríais a esta nueva corriente? Porque nosotras ni lo dudamos. Ya veremos si esto termina llegando a la calle; ¡tiempo al tiempo!

L&M.

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Fendi Haute Couture 2016

It has been two weeks full of shows from the Maisons showing their new Haute Couture Collections. Brands as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Miu Miu, and much more have shown in Paris their works. As other times, “it-girls” and people who work on this industry have taken the chance to wear the perfect outfit. As an example, we can look the moods from the “it-girls” Chiara Ferragni, Nicole Warne, Olivia Palermo or even Kate Hudson.

But we would like to emphasise Fendi’s show. Even though it was not a common Haute Couture because they celebrated 90 years founded in Rome and they wanted to expose what would be their new collection in the Fontana di Trevi from Rome. Awesome. There is no better way to join two worlds: art and fashion. Both aim to achieve maximum beauty; and Karl Lagerfeld has achieved displaying the fashion show in such excellence square.

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Kendal Jenner opened the show; models walked in a transparent platform that was on the water; lights were perfectly located to emphasise the garments. It has to be said that the square was closed to the public just for the show. The collection was in accordance with the location; blue was the main colour in almost each color-scheme. Embroidery, mix textures and delicate materials were used in this haute couture for the Maison. It has brought us to our childhood; princesses and fairies became true for half an hour. We wonder what would do Fendi for its 100th anniversary. Will be very difficult for them to overcome it.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab is native to Lebanon, born in 1964. His passion for fashion began at the age of 9, making dresses for his sisters and being self-taug1210698514_1ht. In 1981 he went to Paris to study fashion but the following year, at the age of 18, he returned to Beirut where he created his label and opened his first couture atelier contrary to his parents wish. He had a dozen of employees working for him and in the following months he presented his first collection. His reputation grew quickly and son his fame spread beyond Beirut’s borders and high-society woman desired Elie Saab dresses. His style is known for updating the oriental essence using noble materials as organza, taffeta or satin paired with light and fluid fabrics or lace.

He was thedurante-la-coronacion-de-rania-de-jordania-en-1999 first non-italian to become part of the Camera Nazionale della Moda (1997) and the same year he showed his collection in Rome, the first time out of Beirut. In 1998 presented his ready-to-wear collection in Milan and made a fashion show in Monaco, which was attended by Princess Stépahni of Monaco. One of the most highlighted moments was when Queen Rania of Jordan chose Elie Saab to wear for her enthronement in 1999. Since then he define her as his “muse and friend” with a “great sense of style, kind and generous”.

But his international success arrived when Halle Berry, dressed by Elie Saab, won an Oscar in 2002; he became the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar winner. That night was a turning point. He began to be interviewed and appeared on many TV networks and celebrities started to wear his creations. Some of the famous people or celebrities he has dress are Beyoncé, Christina Aguilera, Angelina Jolie, Celine Dion, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Eva Green, Emma Watson Diane Kruger amongst others.

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Elie Saab became a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in March 2003 and in July launched his first haute couture collection in Paris. 2006 was the year when he introduced the first prêt-à-porter collection in Paris (Spring-Summer ‘06); since then, Paris is the city for the ready-to-wear runway. In 2007 opened a boutique in Le Triangle d’Or. As fragrances is concerned, in 2011 was launched his first one called “Le Parfum” wich became bestseller in 15 countries.

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His designs are focused on highlight feminity using high-quality fabrics and delicate embroideries, based on sophistacation. He also has a bridal collection in collaboration with Pronovias. Nowadays counts with boutiques located all over the world, for example in Beirut, Mexico, New York, Paris, Hong Kong, Moscow, London, Geneva or Dubai.

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Lanvin

Probably all of us will have seen somewhere the iconic logo of the brand; but we don’t know the history of this glamorous mark. Jeanne Lanvin wasJeanne Lanvin born in a poor family in 1867. She was the eldest of her eleven siblings. After working in a hat shop in Barcelona, with just 22 years old she decided to open her first boutique in Paris, 1889. As the known Coco Chanel, she started doing hats and in her free time she used to do each clothes of her beloved daughter; Marguerite Marie-Blanche, who was her main source of inspiration. These designs were sophisticated and attractive. The mothers of her classmates started to order clothes for her daughters like the ones that used to wear Marie-Blanche. After that, the mothers started to order copies of the clothes to match with their children. She was the first designer to create a children’s clothing collection and in 1908 opened a “Children’s Outfits” department; a year later opened a department for “Young girls and Young Ladies”. Finally, in 1909, she entered in the Chambre Syndicale of the Haute Couture of Paris; this involved worldwide recognition and notoriety. The same year the maison appeared for the first time in Vogue.

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With regard to the logo, in 1907 Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter Marguerite Marie-Blanche attended a costumed ball, both in matching gowns and hats, and the moment was immortalized in a famous photograph. Paul Iribe (noted illustrator, decorator and costumier) created the logo based on that photograph. Later on, it was reworked by Armand Rateau and was placed above the inscription “Jeanne Lanvin”.

The style of the maison evolved at the same time Marguerite was growing and becoming a woman. In the twenties her designs were characterized by the simplicity and the use of colours, in fact she created a dye factory in 1923 for her own designs where it was produced the characteristic “Lanvin blue”. Although, for Jeanne Lanvin black was a symbol for elegance and sophistication. Moreover, she used complex trimmings, virtuoso embroideries and decorations, a style that was against the contemporary flapper style . In the same decade, the brand diversified its activity creating lingerie, home décor, furs, menswear (1926) and perfumes. Lanvin Parfums SA was created in 1924 and a year later was released “My Sin”, a fragrance based on heliotrope, and in 1927 was launched Arpège, her signature fragrance inspired by her daughter practicing scales on the piano.

A trademark of the maison is the Robes de Style (1920s), an alternative to the flapper and garçonne dresses of the period. It has a sculptural silhouette and it is characterized by its dropped waist and wide skirt, inspired by the 18th century court dresses. Lanvine, nowadays, continues reinventing it.

During the twenties and thirties her collections were clearly influenced by art and different paintings. Jeanne was looking for innovation and improvement, creating avant-garde designs but maintaining the designs delicate and filmy. Moreover, Lanvin introduced the over-the-ankle dresses, a revolution for her era. After all that, her clients were the queens from Italy and Romania and also the upper-middle classes. It has to be said that in 1936 Jeanne Lanvin received the Légion d’Honneur, the highest decoration of the French State.

In 1946, when Jeanne Lanvin died, her daughter took the role of the brand along with a cousin and a fashion industry. At the death of Marguerite Marie-Balnche in 1958, Yves Lanvin got the ownership of the maison due to the fact that Marguerite was childless. In 1994 L’Oréal acquired the 50% of the House and in 1996 the 100%, which was mainly dedicated to perfumery. Nevertheless, in 2001 Lanvin became private again due to the acquirement of magnate Mrs. Shaw-Lan Wang. The same year Alber Elbaz became the artistic director for all activities of Lanvin after being dismissed from Yves Saint Laurent. In 2006, Lucas Ossendrijver was in charge of the men’s line. Alber Elbaz returned the splendour to aAlberPortrait-450x375 concrete garment, the dress. For him, everything turns around the dress: the colours, the materials, the shapes, etc… Nevertheless, the colours are not left to chance. He created designs with flounces, pleats or voluminous sleeves that were renewed every season. But he finished the looks with earrings, necklaces or brooches. As the packaging is concerned, Alber Elbaz introduced a new one featuring a light forget-me-not blue colour, shopping bags imprinted with Paul Iribe’s 1907 illustration of Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter and shoe boxes like antique library files tied with black ribbons.

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We can’t forget the “happy” Lanvin bag, one of the house’s bag designs that consist of a simple flap and a grosgrain ribbon on the chain strap with an oversize bow. Every season is redesigned with different colours and materials. It is feminine, elegant and versatile.

In 2010 Lanvin made a capsule collection for H&M. Alber Elbaz said: “My intention is to join the beauty with modern”. The collection was characterized by drapery, volume, asymmetric shoulders and a lot of color. Here you can see the commercial.

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On October 2015, Lanvin announced that Alber Elbaz was no longer at the maison.

 

 

Givenchy

Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy, best known as Huber Taffin de Givenchy, was born in 1927 in Beauvais, Oise and was raised in an aristocrat atmosphere. The artistic blood was in his family veins, and at the age of seventeen he moved to Paris to study at the École de Beaux-Arts. His firsts works for the fashion industry were for Jacques Fath, and later he worked for Robert Piguet, Lucien Lelong and Elsa Shiaparelli.

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In 1952 he took the decision to open his own brand, the House of Givenchy. His first collection was named Les Séparables and the most iconic piece was the Bettina Blouse, in honour of Bettina Graziani, a Parisian model. This shirt was painted in one of Gruau’s painitngs. His style was innovating, the opposite to conservative style of Dior. Les Séparables was praised by Vogue magazine, The New York Times and l’Album du Figaro.

As fabrics is concerned, the first used by Hubert were cheap fabrics but the designs always stood out because of the originality. He innovated also in this aspect, using “shirting” (raw cotton) to create more casual collections.

In 1954 he created the first women prêt-à-porter collection by a high fashion designer, called “Givenchy Universté”, produced in Paris using American machinery and in 1957 introduced the “Sack dress”, an evolution of the “Shirt dress”. A year later, came out his iconic “Balloon coat” and “Baby Doll” dress. All of three pieces were loose-fitting but that does not mean Hubert did not know how to highlight the feminine figure.

The first perfume of the maison, L’Interdit, was launched in 1957 but for exclusively for Audrey Hepburn’s use and then she became the image of the fragrance. It was the first time ever an actress advertised a perfume. Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn met by the time she was filming Sabrina because he was in charge to do her costumes. It all started with Sabrina (1954), but she wore Givenchy designs at Love in the Afternoon (1957), Funny Face (1957), Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), Charade (1963), Paris When it Sizzles (1963), How to Steel a Million (1965) and Bloodline (1979).

Back in 1953, Hubert met Cristóbal Balenciaga; it was the beginning of a very long friendship. For him, Balenciaga was an inspiration and his mentor. Just as a curiosity, he boosts the Balenciaga Museum, in Guetaria (Basque Country), inaugurated in 2011, and donated his personal collection of “balenciagas”. Furthermore, also in 1953, on July to be precise, Liz Benn appeared on the cover of Vogue wearing a Givenchy swimsuit.

The first line for men was launched in 1969 and was called “Givenchy Man” and two years later designed a collection of embroidered coats as homage to George Braque and Joan Miró. During the seventies Givenchy added shoes, jewels and ties to its products. Moreover, Hubert de Givenchy designed the interiors of Hilton Hotels all around the world and a car, the Lincoln Continental Mark V. Givnehcy Inc. arrived at Fifth Avenue in 1976.

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Eventhough in 1981 the maison was divided in two parts because of the acquisition of Veuve Clicquot of the perfumery line, in 1989 the fashion line was sold to the LVMH and nowadays is the owner of Parfums Givenchy, too.

After 43 years of excellent designs and a great success, in 1995 Hubert de Givenchy decided to leave the brand and it took the command John Galliano but he left soon to go to Dior, being succeeded by Alexander McQueen, who was in charge of the artistic department until 2001. Then Julien MacDonald became the Artistic Director and two years later was Ozwald Boateng the successor, who was the responsible of the men line until 2006 developing the male style of the French brand based on British touches, keeping the elegance and classicism of this style. In 2005 women line was given to Riccardo Tisci and in 2009 the male one. Tisci is characterized by the aristocrat elegance that his designs adopt. Moreover, he widened the chromatin palette of the brand, adding, for example, baby blue, red blood, floral prints, metal or flashy colours. Those were not the only things he has changed; he has added a sensual romanticism touch, updating the legacy of Hubert; the image of the maison. Nevertheless, he maintains the uncluttered designs.

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Innumerable celebrities have worn Givenchy designs. Some of them are Audrey Hepburn, as we said before, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Lauren Bacall, Maria Callas, Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis, Beyoncé, Kim Kardashian, Madonna and much more.

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As a last curiosity, for the first time in fashion industry, Riccardo Tisci featured a transsexual model, Lea.T (Leo Cerezo, a Brazilin boy who was the designer’s personal assistant for a few years), for the Fall 2010 collection.

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