Silhouettes’ battle: Oversize vs. Corsets

Fashion has the ability to adapt to every taste. There are two silhouettes that will lead the season, oversize and bustiers.

Oversized silhouette comes along with commodity, effortless and even masculine style. This season, Chanel, Christian Dior, Stella McCartney or Nina Ricci bet for neutral tones.  But MSGM prefers to add big red dots and Prada animal print.

 

But for those who lean towards fitted garments we have good news: corsets are back! As well as bustiers or waist bells. They bring out the sexiness of women and stand out their curves.Saint Laurent, Prada and Haider Ackermann have opted for them.

 

Do you prefer any of this silhouettes over the other? We have to say that any of them are extremes, they are perfectly combinable and Miu Miu has seen it.

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Kenzo x H&M

The past week H&M finaally announced this year’s collaboration. They have teamed up with the french maison Kenzo and it will be lauched on november 3rd. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, creative directors of Kenzo since 2011, have told to H&M Magazine that what they really expect is to explain the true story of the maison and their own story.

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Kenzo is know for its colorful garments and shoking designs, such the embroidered tiger on a sweatshirt, one of the most iconics pieces of the brand.

Carol Lim and Humberto Leon told they don’t have a type of client, they are always searching for new ones to know the brand and the history behind.

By the moment, we don’t know anything else about H&M newest collaborations, but as soon as we get more information we will post it and we will keep you update.

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Balenciaga

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Cristóbal Balenciaga, admired by Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy or Coco Chanel, was one of the greatest couturiers of all times; in his words: “a couturier must be an architect for design, a sculptor for shape, a painter for colour, a musician for harmony and a philosopher for temperance”.

Was born in Getaria (Basque Country) and raised by his mother, Martina, because of the early death of his father, who was a fisherman. She introduced him in the couture world due to her job of seamstress for important families. When he was a teenager he met the Marchioness de Casa Torres and she became his patron and customer. He started his training period in San Sebastian in well-known establishments like Casa Gómez or New England and then in Au Louvre department store in San Sebastian, which have him the opportunity to know Paris and the most famous Maisons.

In 1917 he opened his first boutique named C.Balenciaga in San Sebastian and in a very short period of time he gained a lot of prestige among Spanish and European royalty and upper classes. In 1927 set up a new company focused on the traditional high couture called Eisa Couture.

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Because of the Civil War he was forced to move to Paris and his activity decreased, but on July 1937 he formed BALENCIAGA Company and on August he presented his first high couture collection, which had a lot of success. Two years later, was released a collection based on the XVII century fashion and on the Second French Empire. Moreover, one of the dresses that had a major favourable outcome was “Infanta” dress. It has to be said that he reinterpreted characteristic details typical of traditional Spanish fashion, such as gowns made with rich embroideries and braids, made references to the pictorial world.

1947 was the release date of the brand first perfume, Le Dix. As fashion is concerned, during the late forties and the early fifties he opted for volume and fluid lines instead of corsets. He presented the tonneau (barrel) line, which introduced a half-fitted suit with volume on the back and fitted on the front. In the mid-fifties launched the tunic, a two-piece dress of straight lines and in 1957 the sack dress. A year later, in 1958, he presented the baby doll dress and the peacock tail dresses. His creations were a revolution on the fashion industry of the moment and he was soon recognized the “king of the high couture”.

Balenciaga changed the lines of the suits and established short jackets and high waist pieces. Even his sport style was marked by elegance. His sure bets were low heel, skirts below the knees or quarter length sleeves.

In 1968 he retired after presenting his last collection and announced the closure of the Paris, Madrid, Barcelona and San Sebastian boutiques. Cristóbal Balenciaga died soon after, in 1972, and the brand remained on the obscurity.

Michel Goma tried to recover the brand in 1987 launching a prêt-à-porter line, but it doesn’t achieve the successful he expected. Five years later, Josephus Melchior Thimister presented another prêt-à-porter line based exclusively on black and ink blue, but again, it doesn’t receive excellent reviews from the fashion industry. Since the retirement and death of Balenciaga, the fashion brand lived thanks to its past glory and the perfumes.

1997 was the year that Nicolás Ghesquière arrived to the maison, and his first collections were characterized by black and the volume, following the origins of the brand. But the maximum success of the designer arrived in 2008 with his little dress and the two-pieces with floral print and puffy sleeves. Ghesquière wanted to transmit a new avant-garde image, renewing the spirit of the maison. He left the brand in 2012 and Alexander Wang took the design leadership and he received good reviews, but after the spring-summer 2016 collection the American designer announced his departure. Demna Gvasalia, from Vêtements, is the new creative director of Balenciaga.

 

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Moschino Fresh, the dichotomy of high and low

Moschino-Fresh-Couture-with-Linda-EvangelistaMoschino Fresh couture is the second fragrance of the brand under the leadership of Jeremy Scott and it was released on November 2015, staring Linda Evangelista as the face of the due to the Spring 2016 fashion collection, as we said in a past article. Moreover, Jeremy Scott designed different garments or accessories for the Fresh Collection. Linda Evangelista was chose as the face of the product.

Basically, it stands out because of the bottle, which looks exactly like a window cleaner; even the liquid is blue. Nevertheless, the cap is not a real spray. The intention of the creators when they designed the fragrance was to “juxtapose the most mundane and commonplace of all products, the household cleaner, with something so precious – the juice of a luxury brand’s fragrance. Taking the iconography of a bottle that has no aspirational value and using it as the inspiration for a vessel to contain something so luxurious and haute couture, creates the ultimate dichotomy of high and low.”62000819hg_13_r

Despite having good vibes at the beginning, we have to say that the mixture of bergamot, ylang ylang at the top, raspberry and white peony at the heart and clear woods and patchouli at the base doesn’t result quite extraordinary. In fact, the fragrance isn’t fresh, is ordinary and in occasions it can be a little bit strong.

Moschino Fresh Couture Eau de Toilette is available in 30ml, 50ml and in 100ml.

Chloé

pt_gaby_aghion__collection_gaby_aghion_jpg_5076_north_1024x_whiteGabrielle Hanoka, best know as Gaby Aghion, was a fashion designer born in Alexandria, Egypt 1921 and founder of Chloé. She and her husband moved to Paris in 1945 and in 1952 launched Chloé. Gaby Aghion wanted to create an alternative to Haute Couture and to leave behind the stiff and sober designs; fine fabrics and soft and feminine clothes were her bets, but always keeping a high quality level.

The first collection of the French maison was launched in 1956 at Café de Flore, where young intellectuals like Picasso, Sartre or Camus used to go. French femininity emerged from the garments, which had a bohemian and retro inspiration at the same time as sophistication.

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In the sixties Aghion hired Karl Lagerfeld and in 1966 he became the designer in chief of Chloé. Lagerfeld’s designs followed the guidelines established by Gaby Aghion and soon became a reference for those Parisian bohemians of the moment. In 1975 was launched the first fragrance of the brand, called Chloé.

stellaA few years later Karl Lagerfeld left the maison and began a period full of changes. Gaby Anhion had run the house until 1985 when Dunhill Holdings bought it. In 1993 it became part of the Vendôme conglomerate. Soon after, in 1997, Stella McCartney, daughter of the Beatle Paul McCartney, became creative director of the maison.
Firstly nobody took her seriously but things changed when her fist collections was introduced, which consisted on an update of the French look. Just as a curiosity, the song she chose for the fashion show was All You Need is Love from The Beatles. Thanks to Stella’s friends, as Kate Moss or actress Liv Tyler, the brand became more and more popular.

In 2001 she left the French House in order to create his own brand and Stella was succeeded by Phoebe Philo, her assistant. That same year was introduced See by Chloé, a younger lichloe-eau-de-toilette-2848ne. The next year, Bracelet, one of the most iconic bags of the maison, was launched and the first shop in London was opened. Although Phoebe had a lot of success in 2004 she left and Paulo Melim, a Portuguese designer, became the creative director in 2006. In the mid time, in 2005 Paddington bag was introduced. Paulo wanted to do an about-turn and leave behind the vintage spirit of the House, which would became the reason why Hanna MacGibbon replaced him. During the Paulo Melim’s period were created another two perfumes: Chloé Eau de Perfume (2007) advertised by Chloë Sevigny, Clémence Poésy and Anja Rubik, and Love (2010).

As it was said before, in 2011 Hanna MacGibbon took the management of the creative department but soon after she quitted and Clare Waight Keller replaced her. She has returned the bohemian and chic look from the seventies to Chloé.

 

 

 

 

Elie Saab

Elie Saab is native to Lebanon, born in 1964. His passion for fashion began at the age of 9, making dresses for his sisters and being self-taug1210698514_1ht. In 1981 he went to Paris to study fashion but the following year, at the age of 18, he returned to Beirut where he created his label and opened his first couture atelier contrary to his parents wish. He had a dozen of employees working for him and in the following months he presented his first collection. His reputation grew quickly and son his fame spread beyond Beirut’s borders and high-society woman desired Elie Saab dresses. His style is known for updating the oriental essence using noble materials as organza, taffeta or satin paired with light and fluid fabrics or lace.

He was thedurante-la-coronacion-de-rania-de-jordania-en-1999 first non-italian to become part of the Camera Nazionale della Moda (1997) and the same year he showed his collection in Rome, the first time out of Beirut. In 1998 presented his ready-to-wear collection in Milan and made a fashion show in Monaco, which was attended by Princess Stépahni of Monaco. One of the most highlighted moments was when Queen Rania of Jordan chose Elie Saab to wear for her enthronement in 1999. Since then he define her as his “muse and friend” with a “great sense of style, kind and generous”.

But his international success arrived when Halle Berry, dressed by Elie Saab, won an Oscar in 2002; he became the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar winner. That night was a turning point. He began to be interviewed and appeared on many TV networks and celebrities started to wear his creations. Some of the famous people or celebrities he has dress are Beyoncé, Christina Aguilera, Angelina Jolie, Celine Dion, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Eva Green, Emma Watson Diane Kruger amongst others.

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Elie Saab became a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in March 2003 and in July launched his first haute couture collection in Paris. 2006 was the year when he introduced the first prêt-à-porter collection in Paris (Spring-Summer ‘06); since then, Paris is the city for the ready-to-wear runway. In 2007 opened a boutique in Le Triangle d’Or. As fragrances is concerned, in 2011 was launched his first one called “Le Parfum” wich became bestseller in 15 countries.

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His designs are focused on highlight feminity using high-quality fabrics and delicate embroideries, based on sophistacation. He also has a bridal collection in collaboration with Pronovias. Nowadays counts with boutiques located all over the world, for example in Beirut, Mexico, New York, Paris, Hong Kong, Moscow, London, Geneva or Dubai.

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Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Malletrier, best known as Louis Vuitton, is a FrenchPortrait-Louis-Vuitton fashion house founded in 1854 by Luis Vuitton on Rue Neuve des Capucines in Paris.Luis Vuitton was born in 1821 in Anchay in a working-class family but at the age of 13 he left home and travelled during two years in order to arrive to Paris. He finally arrived in 1837, when he was 16. Once in the city, that was suffering changes due to the Industrial revolution, Vuitton worked as an apprentice with a successful box-maker and packer, Monsieur Marechal, and soon he acquired a good reputation amongst fashionable Parisians.

In 1854, as it was said before, he opened his first workshop and in 1858 he launched a revolutionary rectangular shaped trunks, “Trianon”. This trunk was lighter and much more hermetic. It has to be said that during that time the tops of the trunks used to be rounded. This new package soon attracted to the people and it achieved a high demand, which allowed the expansion of the maison and caused a high level of imitations. A few years after, in 1876, in order to avoid counterfeit he changed the design of the “Trianon” trunk to a beige and brown stripes pattern.

The first store of the brand in London was opened in 1885 on Oxford Street and just three years after it was created the Damier Canvas pattern because of the huge amount of imitations. In the pattern one could read “L.Vuitton déposée”, that means “L.Vuitton registered tradHistory_TrunkDamieremark”. Soon after the founder died (1892) and his son took the management of the maison. As a curiosity, during the Napoleon’s III Empire Louis Vuitton was hired as personal box-maker and packer of the Empress of France, Spanish countess Eugenie de Montijo, who provided him royal clients and from other elites.

 

1896 was an important year, they took out the patent and the monogram was finally launched. It consisted of quatrefoils, flowers and the LV monogram from Japanese and oriental inspiration of the Victorian Era. The patent allowed dropping the imitation rate.

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A new century had started and with it a new piece of luggage was introduced, the Streamer Bag (1901), which was smaller and thought to be kept inside the luggage trunks. By the time of the World War I there were stores all around the world: New York, Washington, Buenos Aires, Alexandria, Bombay and London. Throughout the thirties were launched the Keepall bag (1930); the Noé bag (1932), made for champagne vintners to transport bottles; and the Speedy bag.

Georges Vuitton died in 1936 leaving his son Gaston-Louis Vuitton in charge. During the World War II, period when the maison collaborated with the Nazis during the French occupation of the Germans, leather was introduced into most of its products, such as wallets, purses or pieces of luggage. The Papillon was brought out in 19papillon66 and nowadays is still remaining popular. A year later two stores were opened in Japan, in Tokyo and Osaka. Later on its presence in Asia was extended with new stores in Taipei (1983) and Seoul (1984). The Epi leather line was introduced the following year, in 1985. Two years later Moët Chandon, Hennessy and Louis Vuitton joined to form the luxury goods conglomerate, LVMH.

The new decade brought a new president, Yves Carcelle, a new store in Beijing and new products: in 1993 was introduced the Taiga leather line and in 1994 the literature collection of Voyager Avec… Marc Jacobs became the Artistic Director of the brand in 1997, who in march of the following year designed the maison’s first line of “prêt-à-porter”. Moreover he introduced the Monogram Vernis line, the LV scrapbooks and the Louis Vuitton City Guide. In 1999 was released a mini monogram line.

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2001 was marked by the collaboration of Stephen Sprouse and Marc Jacobs to create a limited-edition line of bags that consisted of graffiti that reads Louis Vuitton –and, on certain bags, the name of it- over the monogram pattern. The same year was introduced the charm bracelet, the first piece of jewellery of the brand. The following year it was launched the Tambour watch collection and in 2003 Takashi Murakami and Marc Jacobs designed de new Monogram Multicoloured canvas range of handbags and accessories. Takashi Murakami was the mastermind of the Cherry Blossom pattern.

The 150th anniversary was celebrated in 2004, the same year that the Fifth Avenue store was inaugurated, and in 2005 the Champs-Élysées store was reopened and the Speedy watch collection was introduced. Three years later was released the Damier Graphite canvas, a redesign of the original one featuring black and grey pattern. Also in 2008 Pharrel Williams co-designed Blason, a series of jewellery and glasses. Kim Jones was presented in 2011 as the Men prêt-à-porter Studio and Style Director, and Darren Spaziani runs the accessory collection since 2013, the same that year Marc Jacobs leaved the brand and was substituted by Nicolas Ghesquière as Artistic Director.

Nowadays Louis Vuitton is one of the most valuable brand in the world and one of the most counterfeited that designs trunks and leather goods, ready-to-wear, shoes, watches, jewellery, accessories and sunglasses amongst others. Each year is released a limited edition bags as well as collaborations with another artists or designers, for example Yayoi Kusama who created the “Infinitely Kusama” collection in 2012.

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In its marketing campaigns had appeared Keith Richards, Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Angelina Jolie, Gisele Bündchen, Sean Connery and David Bowie

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Lanvin

Probably all of us will have seen somewhere the iconic logo of the brand; but we don’t know the history of this glamorous mark. Jeanne Lanvin wasJeanne Lanvin born in a poor family in 1867. She was the eldest of her eleven siblings. After working in a hat shop in Barcelona, with just 22 years old she decided to open her first boutique in Paris, 1889. As the known Coco Chanel, she started doing hats and in her free time she used to do each clothes of her beloved daughter; Marguerite Marie-Blanche, who was her main source of inspiration. These designs were sophisticated and attractive. The mothers of her classmates started to order clothes for her daughters like the ones that used to wear Marie-Blanche. After that, the mothers started to order copies of the clothes to match with their children. She was the first designer to create a children’s clothing collection and in 1908 opened a “Children’s Outfits” department; a year later opened a department for “Young girls and Young Ladies”. Finally, in 1909, she entered in the Chambre Syndicale of the Haute Couture of Paris; this involved worldwide recognition and notoriety. The same year the maison appeared for the first time in Vogue.

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With regard to the logo, in 1907 Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter Marguerite Marie-Blanche attended a costumed ball, both in matching gowns and hats, and the moment was immortalized in a famous photograph. Paul Iribe (noted illustrator, decorator and costumier) created the logo based on that photograph. Later on, it was reworked by Armand Rateau and was placed above the inscription “Jeanne Lanvin”.

The style of the maison evolved at the same time Marguerite was growing and becoming a woman. In the twenties her designs were characterized by the simplicity and the use of colours, in fact she created a dye factory in 1923 for her own designs where it was produced the characteristic “Lanvin blue”. Although, for Jeanne Lanvin black was a symbol for elegance and sophistication. Moreover, she used complex trimmings, virtuoso embroideries and decorations, a style that was against the contemporary flapper style . In the same decade, the brand diversified its activity creating lingerie, home décor, furs, menswear (1926) and perfumes. Lanvin Parfums SA was created in 1924 and a year later was released “My Sin”, a fragrance based on heliotrope, and in 1927 was launched Arpège, her signature fragrance inspired by her daughter practicing scales on the piano.

A trademark of the maison is the Robes de Style (1920s), an alternative to the flapper and garçonne dresses of the period. It has a sculptural silhouette and it is characterized by its dropped waist and wide skirt, inspired by the 18th century court dresses. Lanvine, nowadays, continues reinventing it.

During the twenties and thirties her collections were clearly influenced by art and different paintings. Jeanne was looking for innovation and improvement, creating avant-garde designs but maintaining the designs delicate and filmy. Moreover, Lanvin introduced the over-the-ankle dresses, a revolution for her era. After all that, her clients were the queens from Italy and Romania and also the upper-middle classes. It has to be said that in 1936 Jeanne Lanvin received the Légion d’Honneur, the highest decoration of the French State.

In 1946, when Jeanne Lanvin died, her daughter took the role of the brand along with a cousin and a fashion industry. At the death of Marguerite Marie-Balnche in 1958, Yves Lanvin got the ownership of the maison due to the fact that Marguerite was childless. In 1994 L’Oréal acquired the 50% of the House and in 1996 the 100%, which was mainly dedicated to perfumery. Nevertheless, in 2001 Lanvin became private again due to the acquirement of magnate Mrs. Shaw-Lan Wang. The same year Alber Elbaz became the artistic director for all activities of Lanvin after being dismissed from Yves Saint Laurent. In 2006, Lucas Ossendrijver was in charge of the men’s line. Alber Elbaz returned the splendour to aAlberPortrait-450x375 concrete garment, the dress. For him, everything turns around the dress: the colours, the materials, the shapes, etc… Nevertheless, the colours are not left to chance. He created designs with flounces, pleats or voluminous sleeves that were renewed every season. But he finished the looks with earrings, necklaces or brooches. As the packaging is concerned, Alber Elbaz introduced a new one featuring a light forget-me-not blue colour, shopping bags imprinted with Paul Iribe’s 1907 illustration of Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter and shoe boxes like antique library files tied with black ribbons.

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We can’t forget the “happy” Lanvin bag, one of the house’s bag designs that consist of a simple flap and a grosgrain ribbon on the chain strap with an oversize bow. Every season is redesigned with different colours and materials. It is feminine, elegant and versatile.

In 2010 Lanvin made a capsule collection for H&M. Alber Elbaz said: “My intention is to join the beauty with modern”. The collection was characterized by drapery, volume, asymmetric shoulders and a lot of color. Here you can see the commercial.

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On October 2015, Lanvin announced that Alber Elbaz was no longer at the maison.

 

 

Loewe

Loewe started in 1846 as a cooperative of leather artisans in the centre of Madrid. imagesEnrique Loewe Roessberg consolidated the brand with his name in 1872. Alfonso XIII and Victoria Eugenia, the monarchy of Spain in that moment, granted Loewe the honour in 1905 with the official title of “Supplier to the Royal Court”. Since then the brand started to become famous around the world in the twentieth century. In that moment the brand was not used to firm its garments. It was the right moment to reinforce the image of Loewe; here comes Narciso Rodriguez who designed the Carolyn Bessette wedding dress; he was the one who made Loewe be more popular and international. In 1965 he decided to join the accessories, leather and quality characteristic from the brand with the prêt-â-porter. The logo was created by Vicente Vela in 1970 and was redone in 2006, in the 160 anniversary of the house. Imagen-21In 1996 the house was acquire by  the luxury group LVHM. In 2001 the role as a creative director was taken by José Enrique Oña Selfe, he had the intention to expand the range of clients. He said “Loewe is not a traditional house, it has tradition”.

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Jonathan Anderson it’s the nowadays creative director since 2013. In the past Autumn/Winter 15 Paris FW we could saw the futuristic yet functional collection that he wants to show to the actual woman. A coloured and vivid new look evoking the modern and contemporary lifestyle of Barcelona.

He presented his new Puzzle Bag that with Amazone bag designed by Diario Rossi in 1975 and Flamenco bag, are going to be the iconic bags from Loewe.

 

Bimba & Lola

Bimba & Lola is a Spanish brand created by the sisters Uxía and María, nieces of Adolfo Dominguez, owner of the 80’s famous Spanish brand with the same name. Uxía and María opened their first shop in Bilbao in 2006, but it was created in 2005. It has to be said that their success has arrived in a short period of time, something unusual in this industry. In 2008 opened their first international shop in Paris and nowadays they have presence in more than 17 countries all over the world with 160 shops.

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Now the greyhound is well known and it’s one of the most iconic and imitated logos. Moreover the brand owes the name to the pets of one of the owners.

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As an affordable luxury brand, it offers products of high quality and modern designs in a reasonable price. Their offer goes from bags to shoes, clothes and purses, always following a design line; straight lines and geometric prints. Their garments seem to be comfortable for the active woman but without giving up the luxury touches that can distinguish her from the other women.

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As we said before, it’s remarkable the enormous success the brand has achieved in a brief period of time despite growing in the economic crisis context.