Lanvin

Probably all of us will have seen somewhere the iconic logo of the brand; but we don’t know the history of this glamorous mark. Jeanne Lanvin wasJeanne Lanvin born in a poor family in 1867. She was the eldest of her eleven siblings. After working in a hat shop in Barcelona, with just 22 years old she decided to open her first boutique in Paris, 1889. As the known Coco Chanel, she started doing hats and in her free time she used to do each clothes of her beloved daughter; Marguerite Marie-Blanche, who was her main source of inspiration. These designs were sophisticated and attractive. The mothers of her classmates started to order clothes for her daughters like the ones that used to wear Marie-Blanche. After that, the mothers started to order copies of the clothes to match with their children. She was the first designer to create a children’s clothing collection and in 1908 opened a “Children’s Outfits” department; a year later opened a department for “Young girls and Young Ladies”. Finally, in 1909, she entered in the Chambre Syndicale of the Haute Couture of Paris; this involved worldwide recognition and notoriety. The same year the maison appeared for the first time in Vogue.

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With regard to the logo, in 1907 Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter Marguerite Marie-Blanche attended a costumed ball, both in matching gowns and hats, and the moment was immortalized in a famous photograph. Paul Iribe (noted illustrator, decorator and costumier) created the logo based on that photograph. Later on, it was reworked by Armand Rateau and was placed above the inscription “Jeanne Lanvin”.

The style of the maison evolved at the same time Marguerite was growing and becoming a woman. In the twenties her designs were characterized by the simplicity and the use of colours, in fact she created a dye factory in 1923 for her own designs where it was produced the characteristic “Lanvin blue”. Although, for Jeanne Lanvin black was a symbol for elegance and sophistication. Moreover, she used complex trimmings, virtuoso embroideries and decorations, a style that was against the contemporary flapper style . In the same decade, the brand diversified its activity creating lingerie, home décor, furs, menswear (1926) and perfumes. Lanvin Parfums SA was created in 1924 and a year later was released “My Sin”, a fragrance based on heliotrope, and in 1927 was launched Arpège, her signature fragrance inspired by her daughter practicing scales on the piano.

A trademark of the maison is the Robes de Style (1920s), an alternative to the flapper and garçonne dresses of the period. It has a sculptural silhouette and it is characterized by its dropped waist and wide skirt, inspired by the 18th century court dresses. Lanvine, nowadays, continues reinventing it.

During the twenties and thirties her collections were clearly influenced by art and different paintings. Jeanne was looking for innovation and improvement, creating avant-garde designs but maintaining the designs delicate and filmy. Moreover, Lanvin introduced the over-the-ankle dresses, a revolution for her era. After all that, her clients were the queens from Italy and Romania and also the upper-middle classes. It has to be said that in 1936 Jeanne Lanvin received the Légion d’Honneur, the highest decoration of the French State.

In 1946, when Jeanne Lanvin died, her daughter took the role of the brand along with a cousin and a fashion industry. At the death of Marguerite Marie-Balnche in 1958, Yves Lanvin got the ownership of the maison due to the fact that Marguerite was childless. In 1994 L’Oréal acquired the 50% of the House and in 1996 the 100%, which was mainly dedicated to perfumery. Nevertheless, in 2001 Lanvin became private again due to the acquirement of magnate Mrs. Shaw-Lan Wang. The same year Alber Elbaz became the artistic director for all activities of Lanvin after being dismissed from Yves Saint Laurent. In 2006, Lucas Ossendrijver was in charge of the men’s line. Alber Elbaz returned the splendour to aAlberPortrait-450x375 concrete garment, the dress. For him, everything turns around the dress: the colours, the materials, the shapes, etc… Nevertheless, the colours are not left to chance. He created designs with flounces, pleats or voluminous sleeves that were renewed every season. But he finished the looks with earrings, necklaces or brooches. As the packaging is concerned, Alber Elbaz introduced a new one featuring a light forget-me-not blue colour, shopping bags imprinted with Paul Iribe’s 1907 illustration of Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter and shoe boxes like antique library files tied with black ribbons.

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We can’t forget the “happy” Lanvin bag, one of the house’s bag designs that consist of a simple flap and a grosgrain ribbon on the chain strap with an oversize bow. Every season is redesigned with different colours and materials. It is feminine, elegant and versatile.

In 2010 Lanvin made a capsule collection for H&M. Alber Elbaz said: “My intention is to join the beauty with modern”. The collection was characterized by drapery, volume, asymmetric shoulders and a lot of color. Here you can see the commercial.

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On October 2015, Lanvin announced that Alber Elbaz was no longer at the maison.

 

 

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What to wear this winter

As we have concern, the autumn session it’s leaving us to welcome the winter period. We need to change our wardrobes. It’s the right moment to change our closers and buy new articles that are going to be the new trends. In this article we are going to analyze what has been in the catwalk in the past Fall Winter. We will compare the marked tendency by the big brands with more accessible brands as Zara, United Color of Benetton or Mango. We want to express that everybody can be in fashion with lower prices. Fashion world is accessible for all.

Starting with clothes we have seen that the blouse Victorian has come again a must that we can’t forget; Valentino, Alberta Ferretti and Zimmerman are some examples.

Large sleeves and turtlenecks are the alternatives of the scarf. Houses like LV, Ralph Lauren and Isabel Marant has opt for this alternative.

Extra long coats or XXL Coats are going to be one of the must this winter; Calvin Klein or Chanel have choose leather back or tweed as a materials.

As an alternative we have seen by Burberry Prorsum and Chloé  Jackets with a sailor inspiration made by Cashmere with big lapels and buttons. Zara has taken some clothes really similar.

Another option has been the Furry Coats from Fendi or LV; Céline or Chalayan has done something similar only with the sleeves.

Maxi waistcoat from Pedro del Hierro Madrid, Christian Dior and Narciso Rodríguez are special clothes that gives us an special look; you can find it on Zara.

 

Focusing on dresses and skirts; Mango has showed in all it shops large knit dresses above or below the knee. Serious and tight-fitting are it characteristics.  Michael Kors, Chloe and Marco de Vincenzo have opted for this proposal.

Skirts with a broken pattern are the must of Oscar de la Renta and Tommy Hilfilger. And Midi skirts with a flounce are stakes from Antonio Berardi.

Tweed dresses from Chanel and Balenciaga are unforgettable.

 

Window cleavage is the new trend by Blumarine or Calvin Klein Collection.

Die cut that consists on little cuts with laser on garment  lets us see the skin. This are the option from Elie Saab, Marni and Mugler.

Suede is the texture of the season in any color and any type of clothe. We can find it in Chanel or Emilio Pucci.

For this Christmas it comes all the shiny textures mixt with suede. Sass & Bide or Saint Laurent are an example; H&M has similar clothes.

 

Bohemia look that most of “it girls” have showed on social media it perfectly joints with brown suede adding fringe in all type of garments; Burberry Prorsum is the clar example.

 

Flower lace from Salvatore Ferragamo or Diane Von Furstenberg you can find it similar on Mango store.

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Mango

China style is in Mango and Zara shops in an imitation of Valentino or Clover Canyon.

 

There isn’t just only one color for this winter season; but after seeing the past catwalk we can conclude that mustard color from Balmain, Prada or Cavalli and brick red from Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra or Zae Posen will be in our wardrobe if we are in fashion.

After all that, the nowadays handbags are simple, rigid forms, sober colours made with leather. An example are CH nude Editors (490€) or Hermés Constance Mini (4. 250€).

An strange bag is the sphere from Ulyana Sergeenko;  you can find one similar in H&M.

 

 

Talking about shoes, especially high heels, the jewel added in shoes are the new trend from Celine. Prada or Chanel have a collection that we love. Talking about accessories we have the bulky earings from Prada.

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Chloe

Givenchy

Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy, best known as Huber Taffin de Givenchy, was born in 1927 in Beauvais, Oise and was raised in an aristocrat atmosphere. The artistic blood was in his family veins, and at the age of seventeen he moved to Paris to study at the École de Beaux-Arts. His firsts works for the fashion industry were for Jacques Fath, and later he worked for Robert Piguet, Lucien Lelong and Elsa Shiaparelli.

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In 1952 he took the decision to open his own brand, the House of Givenchy. His first collection was named Les Séparables and the most iconic piece was the Bettina Blouse, in honour of Bettina Graziani, a Parisian model. This shirt was painted in one of Gruau’s painitngs. His style was innovating, the opposite to conservative style of Dior. Les Séparables was praised by Vogue magazine, The New York Times and l’Album du Figaro.

As fabrics is concerned, the first used by Hubert were cheap fabrics but the designs always stood out because of the originality. He innovated also in this aspect, using “shirting” (raw cotton) to create more casual collections.

In 1954 he created the first women prêt-à-porter collection by a high fashion designer, called “Givenchy Universté”, produced in Paris using American machinery and in 1957 introduced the “Sack dress”, an evolution of the “Shirt dress”. A year later, came out his iconic “Balloon coat” and “Baby Doll” dress. All of three pieces were loose-fitting but that does not mean Hubert did not know how to highlight the feminine figure.

The first perfume of the maison, L’Interdit, was launched in 1957 but for exclusively for Audrey Hepburn’s use and then she became the image of the fragrance. It was the first time ever an actress advertised a perfume. Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn met by the time she was filming Sabrina because he was in charge to do her costumes. It all started with Sabrina (1954), but she wore Givenchy designs at Love in the Afternoon (1957), Funny Face (1957), Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), Charade (1963), Paris When it Sizzles (1963), How to Steel a Million (1965) and Bloodline (1979).

Back in 1953, Hubert met Cristóbal Balenciaga; it was the beginning of a very long friendship. For him, Balenciaga was an inspiration and his mentor. Just as a curiosity, he boosts the Balenciaga Museum, in Guetaria (Basque Country), inaugurated in 2011, and donated his personal collection of “balenciagas”. Furthermore, also in 1953, on July to be precise, Liz Benn appeared on the cover of Vogue wearing a Givenchy swimsuit.

The first line for men was launched in 1969 and was called “Givenchy Man” and two years later designed a collection of embroidered coats as homage to George Braque and Joan Miró. During the seventies Givenchy added shoes, jewels and ties to its products. Moreover, Hubert de Givenchy designed the interiors of Hilton Hotels all around the world and a car, the Lincoln Continental Mark V. Givnehcy Inc. arrived at Fifth Avenue in 1976.

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Eventhough in 1981 the maison was divided in two parts because of the acquisition of Veuve Clicquot of the perfumery line, in 1989 the fashion line was sold to the LVMH and nowadays is the owner of Parfums Givenchy, too.

After 43 years of excellent designs and a great success, in 1995 Hubert de Givenchy decided to leave the brand and it took the command John Galliano but he left soon to go to Dior, being succeeded by Alexander McQueen, who was in charge of the artistic department until 2001. Then Julien MacDonald became the Artistic Director and two years later was Ozwald Boateng the successor, who was the responsible of the men line until 2006 developing the male style of the French brand based on British touches, keeping the elegance and classicism of this style. In 2005 women line was given to Riccardo Tisci and in 2009 the male one. Tisci is characterized by the aristocrat elegance that his designs adopt. Moreover, he widened the chromatin palette of the brand, adding, for example, baby blue, red blood, floral prints, metal or flashy colours. Those were not the only things he has changed; he has added a sensual romanticism touch, updating the legacy of Hubert; the image of the maison. Nevertheless, he maintains the uncluttered designs.

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Innumerable celebrities have worn Givenchy designs. Some of them are Audrey Hepburn, as we said before, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Lauren Bacall, Maria Callas, Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis, Beyoncé, Kim Kardashian, Madonna and much more.

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As a last curiosity, for the first time in fashion industry, Riccardo Tisci featured a transsexual model, Lea.T (Leo Cerezo, a Brazilin boy who was the designer’s personal assistant for a few years), for the Fall 2010 collection.

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Versace

1342207976_207590_1342208845_noticia_normal    Gianni Versace was born in 1946 in Calabria; Italy. His mother had a weaving workshop so he and his two brothers, Santo and Donatella, lived around the fashion world since they were young.  After studying Architecture, he moved to Milan in order to follow his dreams, at the edge of 20, after being working with some famous designers, in 1978 he finally decided to open his first boutique in Via della Spiga in Milan with the cooperation of his two brothers. His first collection was in February 1978. He became popular for his glamorous style and the combination of materials and techniques in an innovative way. One example is the use of aluminum, the laser technique and the molten leather and rubber. His name was extended around the world so this made possible to open other shops in Paris, New York and London. In 1982 he designed the famous dress made with wire mesh.

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He used to mix different styles, classic features with showy prints and always with a touch of sexy and insolence. He get inspired in different ages; Renaissance, Baroque, Art Deco and Avant-garde. From the excess he made a statement of principles. We can see all this mixes in the logo of the brand where appears Medusa, a goddess of the Greek mythology.  versace-logo

     As other fashion brands did, he decided to open his chip, young and informal brand, Versus. The main lovers of the brand were movie starts and musicians.

In 1994 Hugh Grant went to a red carpet with Liz Hurley, she wore an impressive dress from Versace. In 1997 Gianni Versace was murdered in his house of Miami. Elton John, Lady Di and others attended to the funeral. His fortune and the brand were divided between his two brothers and his niece.

palazzo versace dubai.gif     The brand has different principal lines like Atelier Versace, Versace Dona, Versace Uomo; etc. A part from this, Versace has two luxury hotels called Pallazo Versace; one in Australia and another in Dubai. Nowadays Donatella is the vice chairwoman from the administration board and the creative director. After the death of the designer the brand went through a bad time; in 2004 announced the abandon of the Haute Couture of Paris and closed the shops of Madrid and Barcelona. The 2009 was the worst year for the company, they had to close other stores and lay off some workers. Then, H&M offered a collaboration with the brand; this get out the brand from the dark period. Versace came back to the Haute Couture. Famous people continue wearing nowadays it clothes with a clear intention to reclaim that fashion world does not consist only in one type of clothes; as Gianni said “Good taste does not exist.

Loewe

Loewe started in 1846 as a cooperative of leather artisans in the centre of Madrid. imagesEnrique Loewe Roessberg consolidated the brand with his name in 1872. Alfonso XIII and Victoria Eugenia, the monarchy of Spain in that moment, granted Loewe the honour in 1905 with the official title of “Supplier to the Royal Court”. Since then the brand started to become famous around the world in the twentieth century. In that moment the brand was not used to firm its garments. It was the right moment to reinforce the image of Loewe; here comes Narciso Rodriguez who designed the Carolyn Bessette wedding dress; he was the one who made Loewe be more popular and international. In 1965 he decided to join the accessories, leather and quality characteristic from the brand with the prêt-â-porter. The logo was created by Vicente Vela in 1970 and was redone in 2006, in the 160 anniversary of the house. Imagen-21In 1996 the house was acquire by  the luxury group LVHM. In 2001 the role as a creative director was taken by José Enrique Oña Selfe, he had the intention to expand the range of clients. He said “Loewe is not a traditional house, it has tradition”.

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Jonathan Anderson it’s the nowadays creative director since 2013. In the past Autumn/Winter 15 Paris FW we could saw the futuristic yet functional collection that he wants to show to the actual woman. A coloured and vivid new look evoking the modern and contemporary lifestyle of Barcelona.

He presented his new Puzzle Bag that with Amazone bag designed by Diario Rossi in 1975 and Flamenco bag, are going to be the iconic bags from Loewe.

 

3 months with you

Today we are celebrating our third month since we decided to start with this Blog. In this short period of time we have achieved 1 thousand views. That’s much more that what we would have ever expect.

People from UK, Australia, Spain, Portugal, France, Belgium, Italy, USA, India, Sweden, Germany, Singapore, Austria, Russia, Slovakia, Switzerland have helped us to accomplish that. [Thanks to all of you, who make it possible day by day]

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M&L. 🍋